PIZ BERNINA

Piz Bernina, the easternmost 4,000-meter peak in the Alps, is one of the most inspiring mountaineering goals in the region. Its elegant shape and high alpine setting make it a truly memorable summit.

The normal route, also known as Spallagrat, begins on the snow slopes above the Marco e Rosa Hut, then follows a rocky ridge (with some fixed ropes) up to La Spalla — the Italian summit at 4,020 meters. From there, an exposed ridge leads to the final rocky section and on to the main summit. It's an exciting and scenic route, with a real sense of progression and reward.

While the climb itself begins at the Marco e Rosa Hut, getting there is already a real mountain journey.

The Italian approach via Rifugio Marinelli is longer, more remote, and full of character — crossing glaciers, including a short via ferrata, and some scrambling. It takes about 2.5–3 hours to reach the Marinelli Hut, followed by another 3–4 hours to Marco e Rosa (PD-).

The Swiss approach, from Berghaus Diavolezza, is more accessible thanks to a gondola that lifts you straight into the high alpine. From there, a scenic glacier hike — including some scrambling along the Fortezza ridge — takes about 4.5 to 5.5 hours (PD).

Both approaches are beautiful in their own way, and they set the tone for what’s to come: a truly rewarding climb on one of the Alps’ most iconic peaks.

Difficulty: Moderate / PD+, glacier travel, easy mist climbing and sections of II and III on rock

Equipment:

Harness, helmet, mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe

Backpack (30-35 liters)

The required clothes depends on the season/weather, check it out with the guide. Early and late-season temperatures require warmer clothing (e.g. down jacket or shell).

Check the complete equipment list here!

Equipment rental: available upon request.

Requirements: A bit of experience in rock climbing or mountaineering, normal overall training.

This is not an entry-level climb — some alpine experience is required.

Favourable Seasons: end of June to October

Duration: 2 days, with overnight stay at Rifugio Marco e Rosa or Marinelli

Pricing

1:1 – € 820


2:1 – € 480 per person