MONTE DISGRAZIA
3.678 m
W-N-W Ridge - Normal route
Monte Disgrazia was first climbed in 1862 by British alpinists Edward Shirley Kennedy and Leslie Stephen — a writer, mountaineer, and the father of Virginia Woolf, one of the most influential literary voices of the 20th century. Together with Thomas Cox and Swiss guide Melchior Anderegg, they reached the summit — and ever since, it has stood as the defining mountaineering ascent of Valmasino.
A small, steep glacier leads to the Sella di Pioda saddle, where the Masino-Bregaglia granite pluton gives way to serpentine — the brown metamorphic rock that shapes the eastern side of the Predarossa valley.
Here, at around 3,400 meters, the long and graceful ridge begins — never too easy, never too exposed — guiding climbers to one of the most panoramic summits in the region.
Just below the summit, a massive, distinctive stone known as il cavallo di bronzo — the bronze horse — adds one final challenge: a small but memorable “boulder problem” at altitude.
This ascent can also serve as a rewarding “mountaineering day” for those crossing Val Masino along the Sentiero Roma.
Difficulty: PD - 600 m to the hut + 1.100 m to the summit
Equipment:
Harness, helmet, mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe
Backpack (30-35 liters)
The required clothes depends on the season/weather, check it out with the guide. Early and late-season temperatures require warmer clothing (e.g. down jacket or shell).
Check the complete equipment list here!
Equipment rental: available upon request.
Requirments: A bit of experience in rock climbing or mountaineering, normal overall training
Favourable Seasons: end of June to October
Duration: 2 days, with overnight stay at Rifugio Cesare Ponti 👉 Link here!
Pricing
1:1 – € 680
2:1 – € 420 per person
