OCEANO IRRAZIONALE
A sustained and scenic and long climb that delivers full value, right above the gateway to the valley.
Luna Nascente isn’t just a route — it’s a piece of climbing history carved into the granite heart of Val di Mello. First ascended in 1978 by Antonio Boscacci, Mirella Ghezzi, and Graziano Milani, it marked a turning point in the Italian free climbing (r)evolution.
The route itself unfolds naturally, following cracks, flakes, and subtle features etched into flawless alpine granite. From the very first pitch — a sharp finger crack graded 6b, often aided — Luna Nascente demands both technique and flow. The climbing is never monotonous: elegant laybacks, solid jams, airy traverses, and occasional chimney moves keep things engaging from base to summit. Luna remains one of the great alpine classics — a route that speaks to the soul of trad climbing.
If you come to Val di Mello, you don’t just want to climb it. You need to.
Difficulty: Moderate-Advanced / 400 m, 10 pitches — 6a+ max
Equipment:
Harness, Helmet, climbing shoes, chalk, 1 HMS carabiner, belay/rappel device + dedicated carabiner, 120 sling or PAS.
Backpack (20-25 liters)
The required clothes depends on the season/weather, check it out with the guide. Early and late-season temperatures require warmer clothing (e.g. down jacket or shell).
Check the complete equipment list here!
Equipment rental: available upon request.
Favourable Seasons: spring to autumn
Duration: 1 (long) day
Pricing
1:1 – € 520
2:1 – € 320 per person
