Val di Mello

Traditional multipitch routes are the best way to discover Val di Mello’s granite walls!

These beautiful routes follow the logical weak lines of the amazing rock formations that frame the valley, along cracks, corners and unprotected slabs.

The common features of all these routes, which were mostly opened in the 70’s by a group of “rebel-climbers” known as the “Sassisti” are: beauty, respect for the rock, fun and adventurousness. The refusal of the use of mountaineering boots and bolts, coupled with the innovative thinking that climbing is worth doing even if there is no summit to conquer, were the inspiring principals of the “Sassisti” movement.

Among the long list of these trad routes, many of the routes gained notoriety and are considered to be some of the best rock climbs at the centre of the Alps. For those who’d like to try this experience, there are several options, from easy grades up to longer and harder routes, such as Luna Nascente, Oceano Irrazionale and much more.

Some distance away from them, in more recent years, the unprotected slabs have been climbed. The use of hand drill bolts first, and a power drill later, gave way to many excellent friction routes, even though the protections remain generally rather spaced.

Enjoying it all, whether trad or bolted, without early morning alarms, any stress such as the gondola’s last run: that is the perfect recipe of a normal amazing day living the valley.


Getting in touch

Tunnel diagonale

Beauty: ♥♥♥

Length: 120 m , 4 p

Grade: 5b max – TRAD

Price: 180 €

Note: generally climbed together with Cunicolo Acuto

Cunicolo acuto

Beauty: ♥♥♥♥

Length: 80 m, 3 P

Grade: 6a max – TRAD

Price: 180 

Note: generally climbed together with Tunnel Diagonale

Alba del Nirvana

Beauty: ♥♥♥♥

Length: 200 m , 6 P

Grade: 5c max – TRAD

Price: € 260,00

Alba del Nirvana

Nuova Dimensione

Beauty: ♥♥♥♥

Length: 140 m , 3 P

Grade: 6a+ max – TRAD

Price: 240 € 

Le risposte di Bakunin

Beauty: ♥♥♥

Length: 180 m, 5 P 

Grade: 5c max – TRAD

Price: € 260,00

The great classics

Il risveglio di Kundalini

Beauty: ♥♥♥♥♥

Length: 400 m, 10 P – TRAD

Grade: 6a+ max

Price: € 360,00

Kundalini – Sea of Granite

Luna Nascente

Beauty: ♥♥♥♥♥

Lungth: 340 m, 9 P

Grade: 6b max – TRAD

Price: € 400,00

Helene laybacking on Luna Nascente third pitch.


Beauty: ♥♥♥♥♥+

Length: 360 m , 10 P

Grade: 6b max – TRAD

Price: € 440,00


Having fun on Polimagò exposed traverse.

Oceano Irrazionale

Beauty: ♥♥♥♥♥

Length: 400 m, 14 P

Grade: 6b max – TRAD

Price: € 480,00

Laura is almost at the end of “la tromba”, probably the hardest pitch of Oceano Irrazionale.

For true connoisseurs

Piedi di Piombo

Beauty: ♥♥♥♥

Lentgh: 210 m, 6 P

Grade: 6c max – BOLTED

Price: € 400,00

Our friend Peter on the second pitch of Piedi di Piombo

Self Control

Beauty: ♥♥♥♥

Length: 210 m, 6 P

Grade: 6b max – BOLTED

Price: € 400,00

Amplesso Compesso

Beauty: ♥♥♥♥♥+

Length: 300 m, 7 P

Grade: 6b max – TRAD

Price: € 450,00

Marco “the Doc” enjoys the amazing rock of Amplesso Complesso!

Personal climbing equipment

Included in the price, except climbing shoes (10,00 €/day)

Spring and Autumn, but also possible during fresh Summer’s days.

Will be discussed in private form.