Traditional multipitch routes are the best way to discover and enjoy  Val di Mello’s granite walls!

These beautiful routes follow the logical weak lines of the amazing rock formations that frame the valley, along cracks, corners and (sometimes) unprotected slabs.

The common features of all these routes, which were mostly opened in the 70’s by a group of “rebel-climbers” known as the “Sassisti” are: beauty, respect for the rock, fun and adventurousness. The refusal of the use of mountaineering boots and bolts, coupled with the innovative thinking that climbing is worth doing even if there is no summit to conquer, were the inspiring principals of the “Sassisti” movement.

Among the long list of these trad routes, many of the routes gained notoriety and are considered to be some of the best rock climbs at the centre of the Alps. For those who’d like to try this experience, there are several options, from easy grades up to longer and harder routes, such as Luna Nascente, Oceano Irrazionale and much more.

Some distance away from them, in more recent years, the unprotected slabs have been climbed. The use of hand drill bolts first, and a power drill later, gave way to many excellent friction routes, even though the protections remain generally rather spaced.

Enjoying it all, whether trad or bolted, without early morning alarms, any stress such as the gondola’s last run: that is the perfect recipe of a normal amazing day living the valley.

Val di Mello is probably the best climbing destination within a 2-hour drive  (or little more) from Milan airports (Malpensa, Linate and Bergamo).

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