Valmasino e Disgrazia
Monte Disgrazia
3.678 m
Normal Route
W-N-W Ridge
Very nice ridge with a wonderful view over Piz Bernina range and the lower part of Valtellina.
A small steep glacier leads to a saddle, Sella di Pioda, where the Masino-Bregaglia granite pluton makes its way for serpentine, a metamorphic rock that composes the eastern part of Predarossa valley. Here, at 3.387 meters, the ridge begins.
Easy and sometimes exposed scrambling interrupted by few technical passages takes to a huge characteristic stone named “il cavallo di bronzo” (“the bronze horse”). Once the “boulder problem” it’s done (grade III/IV-) the summit it’s not far away!
NOTE: “Valle di Predarossa” means, word by word, “red rock valley”. This name is due to the red/brownish serpentine rocks that covers the orographic left side of the valley, whilst to the right (west) the grey of the granite colors the landscape.
The equipment not strictly necessary for the ascent can be left in the hut.
VARIATION: with good snow conditions, generally early in the season, a 40-45 ° snow couloir called “Canalone Schenatti” can be a more straightforward option!
M. Andregg, T. Cox, E.S. Kennedy, L. Stephen, 24th August 1862
PD
600 m to the hut + 1.100 m to the summit
4/5 hours to the summit
June to October
1/5
2 max
2 days
Rifugio Ponti, 2.559 m
A bit of experience in rock climbing or mountaineering, normal overall training
1 person: € 600,00 – 2 persons: € 350,00
Corda Molla
N-N-E Ridge
Wild and demanding ascent. The antipodes of Mont Blanc’s queues and crowds!
A 1.600 mt vertical drop trek from Chiareggio in Valmalenco, initially on smooth trails and later on glacier, takes to Bivacco Oggioni situated at 3.150 m. That’s the five stars bivouac from where the ascent begins. From the bivy, a snow slope leads to the beginning of the ridge. A couple of hours of scrambling up and down in direction south, with a few passages of grade III, takes to the beginning of “Corda Molla”, a characteristic steep snowy arête that names the ridge and whose shape reminds a slack rope that hangs from two rocks (despite the global warming has dramatically reduced its length). From its bottom, again on mixte terrain, the summit doesn’t seem too far away, but requires a bit more climbing and concentration.
The descent is generally done following the normal route, the W-N-W ridge, towards Rifugio Ponti.
VARIATION: for those who get bored with long treks, and own adequate training and experience, the approach to the bivouac can be done following the challenging east ridge of Punta Kennedy, a 400 mt rocky AD+ ascent, up to grade IV, that makes this 2-days tour epic!
B. De Ferrari e I. Dell’Andrino, August 1914
AD (AD+ including Punta Kennedy’s east ridge)
1.650 m to the bivy + 550 m to the summit
4/5 hours, hut to summit
June to October
2/5 (3/5 for Kennedy’s E-ridge)
2 max
2 (long) days
Bivacco Oggioni, 3.151 m
Rifugio Ponti, 2.559 m
Good experience in mountaineering, good overall training
1 person: € 940,00
Corda Molla + Punta Kennedy Est Ridge: 1.200 €
Pizzo Cassandra
3.226 m
Normal Route
S-W Ridge
Very pleasant entry level ascent in a suggestive spot at the very end of Valmalenco.
The ascent begins along a nice and interesting geological trail, where eighteen signposts reveal the movements of the glacier from the seventeenth century on. After this short surprising start (we generally analyse it in depth on our way back), we soon reach the glacier Vedretta del Ventina that we follow pointing south-west until we reach Passo Cassandra at 3.097 m. From here the nice and not too exposed, ridge begins. Generally on mixte-terrain, we scramble to the foresummit first and then, along a snow crest, to the main summit.
NOTE: The equipment not strictly necessary for the ascent can be left in the hut.
VARIATION: in early season, it’s generally possible to climb the Pizzo Cassandra North-East Face, a 400 m face graded AD and III. Most part of the climb is on snow up to 45/50°.
A. Balabio e A. Calegari, July 10th 1910
PD-
350 m to the Hut + 1.250 m to the summit
6 hours, hut to summit
June to October
1/5
3 max
2 days, possible in 1 with very good training
Rifugio Gerli Porro, 1.965 m
Rifugio Ventina, 1.960 m
Experience in mountaineering
1 person: € 450,00 – 2 persons: € 270,00 – 3 persons € 180,00
Pizzo Cengalo
3.367 m
Normal Route
Despite Pizzo Cengalo has recently become more famous for its massive rockslides, than for its climbs, the south face of the mountain is still solid and maintains its innate appeal.
Perfect ascent for those who want to move their first steps into the mountaineering’s dimension, or for those that simply want to live an adventurous day across granite and snow.
Even though this ascent doesn’t involve exposed thin arêtes or demanding climbs, it deserves a try!
NOTE:
This ascent could be an alternative “mountaineering day” for those who are crossing Val Masino through Sentiero Roma.
The equipment not strictly necessary for the ascent can be left in the hut.
E. Devouassoud, Q.W. Freshfield, C. Tucker, 1866
PD-, fixed lines and I/II
1.400 m to the hut + 850 m to the summit
4/5 hours to the summit
June to October
1/5
3 max
2 days
Rifugio Giannetti, 2.453 m
Normal overall training
1 person: € 500,00 – 2 persons: € 300,00 – 3 persons € 230,00
Cima di Castello
3.386 m
Normal Route
Enjoyable and long ascent that doesn’t require specific mountaineering skills.
The first part of the climb involves a bit of scrambling along the steep meadows and leads to the saddle between Punta Allievi and Quota 3012. From there we keep on ascending to the right, touching Punta Allievi, and after a short downclimb, entering the glacier Vedretta di Castello. After the last steep part (sometimes icy), through an exposed arête, the mountain is eventually summited.
NOTE: This ascent could be an alternative “mountaineering day” for those who are crossing Val Masino through Sentiero Roma.
The equipment not strictly necessary for the ascent can be left in the hut.
VARIATION: The summit can be also done from Capanna Albigna, situated at 2.332 m in Switzerland (Vertical drop: 1.000 m – Length: 15 km).
W. Freshfield, C. Tucker, July 31st 1886
F+
1.300 m to the hut + 1.000 m to the summit
4/5 hours to the summit
June to October
1/5
3/4 max. Depending on the conditions
2 days
Rifugio Allievi Bonacossa, 2.387 m
Val Masino, Valtellina (Italy)
Normal overall training
1 person: € 500,00 – 2 persons: € 300,00 – 3 persons € 230,00
