Bernina Mountain Range
Pizzo Bernina
4.049 m
Spallagrat – Normal Route
South-Est Ridge
Piz Bernina, the most eastern 4.000 meter-peak of the Alps is maybe the finest mountain of the area.
The Spallagrat starts on the snow slopes above Marco e Rosa hut, then follow a rocky ridge (fixed ropes) to reach La Spalla, the Italian summit, at 4020 m. From there an exposed snow arête takes to the final rocky section and from there to the summit.
The real begin of the ascent can be considered at Rifugio Marco e Rosa, even though both the access from Rifugio Marinelli (Italy) and Berghaus Diavolezza (Switzerland) are way more than a mere approach. Both approaches cross glaciers, involve a bit of rock climbing and, on the Italian side, also a via ferrata.
Coming from Valmalenco the ascent is a bit longer, has no lift, and is a bit more savage (PD-, 3/4 hours from Marinelli Hut).
From the swiss side, the use of a gondola allows to sleep in altitude and save some energy for the following day (PD, 4.5/5.5 hours from Diavolezza).
NOTE: Depending on the training, the ascent can be completed in two or three days.
VARIATION: The return to Diavolezza can be done “in a clean style” across Belleviste and Piz Palü ridges.
J. Coaz, J. and L. Ragut Tscharner, September 13th 1850
PD+, sections of II and III
From Valmalenco: 850 m to the hut + 800 m to Marco e Rosa + 450 m to the summit
From Berghaus Diavolezza: 900 m to Marco e Rosa + 450 m to the summit
It depends on the departure huts choice
June to September
2/5
2 max
2/3 days
Rifugio Marinelli Bombardier, 2.831 m
Berhaus Diavolezza, 2.973 m
Rifugio Marco e Rosa, 3.609 m
Valmalenco, Valtellina (Italy), Engadin (Switzerland)
Experience in mountaineering, good overall training
1 person: € 700,00 – 2 persons: € 400,00 each
Biancograt
North Ridge
“This is a sublime snow route, unsurpassed by any of its standard in the Alps.”
– The 4000m Peaks of the Alps, Alpine Club
The beauty of the snow ridge is well known and photographed all over the world. To describe the feeling of being there, at the base of the snow-ridge, early in the morning, when sun is rising, is almost impossible. Nevertheless, I think that the Italian name “La scala del cielo”, “A stairway to the sky”, could well picture that frame…
The first part of the ascent, over scree and broken rocks, isn’t very exciting and is generally completed by the help of headlamps light. Once at Fourcla Prevliousa, the ascent you’re looking for begins: the challenging and never-ending snow ridge Biancograt leads to “Pizzo Bianco” at 3.995 m. After a short brake, the ascent continue with a few short but exposed rappels that take to the last intimidating rocky part and eventually to the summit!
NOTE: Depending on the training, the ascent can be completed in two or three days.
VARIATION: The way down to Diavolezza can be done “in a clean style” across the Belleviste and Piz Palù ridges.
P. Güssfeldt, H. Grass, J. Gross, August 12th 1878
AD
800 m to the hut + 1.500 m to the summit
5/8 hours to the summit
June to September
3/5
2 max
2/3 days
Rifugio Tschierva 2.583 m
Berhaus Diavolezza, 2.973 m
Rifugio Marco e Rosa, 3.609 m
Experience in mountaineering, good overall training
3 days 1 person: € 1.400,00
Piz Morteratsch
3.751 m
Normal Route
S-W Ridge
Probably the summit with the best view over Bernina range.
Pleasant entry level ascent. The first part across steep meadows and ledges lead to Fourcla Boval at 3.347 m. From there, with the crampons on, the climb continues for a while on the west side to finally reach the long and rounded ridge that goes to the top of the mountain. From this point, the view is great and there’s time to take a few memorable pictures with Piz Roseg, Scherscen and, of course, Piz Bernina and its Biancograt in the background. Could this be the right place where to start planning your future projects?
NOTE: The descent can be done following the same path or, in alternative (and this, trust me, would be a great choice :-), down to Capanna Tschierva in Val Roseg where a tasty dish of rösti awaits you.
VARIATION: It’s also possible to climb Piz Morteratsch from Tschierva Hut in Val Roseg.
C.G. Brügger, P. Gensler, K. Emmermann and A. Klaingutti, September 11th, 1858
PD
600 m to the hut + 1.250 m to the summit
4/5 hours to the summit
June to September
2/5
3 max
2 days
Capanna Boval, 2.495 m
Capanna Tschierva, 2.583 m
Pontresina (Switzerland)
A bit of experience in mountaineering, normal overall training
1 person: € 650,00 – 2 persons: € 360,00 – 3 persons € 280,00
Piz Palü
3.900 m
Normal Route
Beautiful snow ascent across huge crevasses and sharp ridges.
The tour begins with a short trek, first along a flat trail and a moraine toward Fuorcla Trovat, and then down to Vadret Pers, the big glacier below Piz Cambrena e Piz Palü. From there, with crampons at our feet, the ascent continues between snow and huge crevasses as far as we reach Fuorcla Pers-Palü. Now the climb becomes steeper and more interesting, especially at the end, where a nice snowy ridge leads us to summit of Eastern Palü. From there, after a short brake, we traverse along an even more exposed and thinner snow ridge to eventually reach the main summit of Piz Palü at 3.900 m.
Once we’re back to Berghaus Diavolezza, with a well deserved beer in our hands, we can finally celebrate and “print” this extraordinary landscape first in our minds, and then look at the pics in our camera.
NOTE: The descent takes place along the same track. The equipment not strictly necessary for the ascent can be left in the hut.
M.E. Digby, P. Jenny and unknown, 1866 (W-Ridge)
PD-
Lift to the hut + 1.100 m to the summit
4.5/5 hours to the summit
June to September
2/5
3 max
2 days
Berghaus Diavolezza, 2.972 m
Engadin (Switzerland)
A bit of experience in mountaineering, normal overall training
1 person: € 650,00 – 2 persons: € 370,00 – 3 persons 300,00 €
Piz Palü Traverse
900 m
Amazing ride along the ridges that connect western, central and eastern Piz Palü!
From Berghaus Diavolezza, down to Vadret Pers glacier and then toward the big intimidating rock formation called Fortezza. After a bit of scrambling ad few passages of grade II and III the ascent reaches a gentle glacier that leads to Fuorcla Bellavista pass. Here the ridge finally begins. The first part is generally rocky, exposed and technical and takes to Piz Spinas, the western summit of Piz Palü, at 3.822 m. From here back on snow along the steep and dizzy ridge that leads to the central, higher, Piz Palü at 3.900 m and later down to the eastern summit to 3.882 m. Then a long descent, steeper at first and easier later, takes to the col Fuorcla Pers-Palü and the namesake rough glacier. A short trek along a moraine and a trail brings us back to the hut.
NOTE: Difficulty may vary on the basis of the conditions. The equipment not strictly necessary for the ascent can be left in the hut.
A. Wachtler, Wallner, H. and Chr. Grass – July 22nd 1868
AD+
Lift to the hut + 1.200 m to the summit
5/6 hours to the main summit
June to September
3/5
2 max
2 days
Berghaus Diavolezza, 2.972 m
Engadin (Switzerland)
Experience in mountaineering, good overall training
1 person: € 700,00 – 2 persons: € 400,00
Piz Roseg
3.936 m
Eselgrat
North Ridge
Beautiful and long ascent that contains everything an alpinist is looking for: glaciers, steep and compact rock, snow ridges, exposure and an excellent view from the summit.
The tour begins with the usual early morning alarm and a good breakfast too soon followed by a long walk along trails and scree. Still by the headlamps light, below the Piz Umur ridge, we enter the glacier and cross it heading west to the rocky ridge known as La Crasta. After a short brake, crampons in the bag, we begin a funny and committing climb on good rock to reach the upper icefield that ends at 3.917 m on La Muotta da Naiv. Here we may consider the possibility to keep on going and reach the main summit which is only 20 min higher, but that requires another thirty minutes of concentration, up to you guys!
NOTE: The descent is on the same track. The equipment not strictly necessary for the ascent can be left in the hut.
H.Cordier, T.Middlemore, J.Juan e K.Maurer – August 18th 1876.
AD+, few passage of IV
800 m to the hut + 1.400 m to the summit
6/7 hours to the summit
June to September
3/5
2 max
2 days
Rifugio Tschierva 2.583 m
Pontresina (Switzerland)
Experience in mountaineering, good overall training
1 person: € 750,00 – 2 persons: € 450,00
